Wrinkle Care

In recent years, the skin care market had been flooded with a variety of products, containing a number of new-age chemicals, each one of which promises smooth, wrinkle-free skin. So, how do you decide which product is for you?

Here are just some of the most important and proven chemicals used to treat skin damage.

Tretinoil and Retinol

Products containing vitamin A including Retinol, retinaldehhyde or natural forms of the vitamin, and tretinoil and other retinoic acids that are derivatives of the vitamin, have proven benefits in the treatment of skin damaged by ageing and the sun.

Tretinoil also known as retin-A, is meant to be applied twice a week to the face and neck, as well as hands and chest. It leaves the skin with a nice and rosy sheen, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, and brown spots. It makes the skin surface smooth. Retin-A may take between two and six months to show any noticeable effects. However, retin-A tends to increase the sensitivity of the skin to the sun. Therefore, wear a sun block in the daytime, and avoid too much of exposure to the sun. Apply the cream before you go to bed at night. In the beginning, there may be some itching, burning or redness of the skin which can last for up to three months. If the skin inflammation and scaling bothers you, use .025 percent concentration of retin-A. This may lessen the irritation. Besides, moisturizers or 1 percent hydro cortisone cream can help lessen the irritation. However, tretinoil has been found linked to birth defects. Women who are pregnant or trying to conceive, must avoid even topical applications of the cream.

Tretinoil, until recently, was not used in the manufacture of skin products because of its instability. Now however, topical applications containing stable forms of retinol are easily available.

Retinol, when used in the right doses, can have the same efficacy as tretinoil. Besides, it has also been found to have lesser side effects than tretinoil. However retinol skin products that are sold over the counter are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration. The amount of retinol contained in these products therefore, cannot be guaranteed.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants attack the oxygen-free radicals which can cause damage to the cells, and even impact genetic material. Vitamin A, C, E, beta carotene and coenzyme Q-10 are some of the most familiar antioxidants. Because these substances attack oxygen-free radicals in the skin, applications containing these may offer skin protection when these are applied before exposure to the sun. However, for antioxidants to work they must be applied before sun exposure. They don’t seem to work otherwise.

Topical applications of vitamin E can lessen rough texture of the skin, and reduce the depth and length of wrinkles. Ginger and green tea can protect against cancer. In fact green tea‘s benefits are now available in the form of skincare products. The jury is still out on whether these products are actually beneficial to the skin. Silymarin, which is found in artichokes, can prevent certain skin cancers from forming. Other antioxidants include aloe, coral extracts and lemon oil. However, there isn’t much evidence about their benefits.

Alpha Hydroxyl Acid

Much before we had heard of retinol, men and women across the world were exfoliating their skin to remove older, dead skin cells, and reveal young, fresh skin cells underneath. Exfoliation still remains one of the most important skincare routines, although the method used to exfoliate vary from simple scrubs with kitchen ingredients, to laser resurfacing.

Exfoliation must be done with a gentle abrasive material, using scrubbing motions that are perpendicular to wrinkles. Cleansing grains with micro beads are ideal for exfoliation. Avoid sea sponges or loofhas which may contain bacteria and infect skin. Also avoid exfoliating products that contain minute particles of walnut shell, because these can make microscopic cuts on the skin. Scrubs with micro beds can remove dead skin cells without lacerating the skin. However, persons who have acne or sensitive skin must avoid exfoliation using scrubs.

Alpha hydroxyl acids take the process of scrubbing even further, by not just encouraging the removal of death skin cells, but also stimulating collagen and elastin production. These AHA containing products can include Poly alpha hydroxyl acids or Bata hydroxyl acids which contain salcylate acid. These acids are believed to be less likely to cause skin irritation.

Moisturizers

Moisturizers are essential help the skin retain moisture, and for best results, must be applied after a shower or after washing the face when there is still dampness on the skin. Moisturizers can work in different ways to retain moisture. For instance, occlusives like petroleum jelly work by preventing water evaporation. Glycerin and other humectants work by extracting water from the deeper tissues to the surface of the skin. Humectants tent to be more beneficial for people with oily skin.

There are other powerful substances that may be more effective in retaining moisture and preventing moisture loss. Monolaurin contains lipid mixtures that can protect the skin against moisture loss. Generally, an over-the-counter moisturizer may contain more than one of these ingredients, and may also include other substances like collagen, AHA and sun screens. Moisturizers can range from cheaper products that are available for just a few dollars, to expensive ones that can cost hundreds of dollar for a few ounces. Generally however, there is very little difference between these products, and they have very little effect on wrinkles.